Lorenzo h



(No Model.) L. H MANSFIELD.

' Boot and Shoe.

No.236,n0. Patented Jan. 4,1881.

m STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LORENZO H. MANSFIELD, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR OF TWO-THIRDS TOWILLIAM Q. KERRIGAN AND CHARLES R. LYNCH, OF SAME PLACE.

BOOT ANDSHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 236,170, datedJanuary-4, 1881. Application filed June 3, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, LORENZO H. MANSFIELD, of Chicago, in the county ofCook and State of Illinois, have invented a certain new and usefulImprovement in Boots and Shoes, of which the following is aspecification.

. The object 1 have in View is to produce a machine-sewed double-soleturn boot or shoe which can be made cheaply and by the maro chineryalready in use for manufacturing the ordinary single-sole turn-shoes,and will be very strong and durable, and in which the stitches thatsecure the upper cannot be exposed by drawing back upon the upper, and

the inner sole can be finished flat and smooth on its upper surfacewithout injury to the stitches that secure the upper.

My invention therein consists, principally, in a turn boot or shoewherein the outer sole is secured to a welt-extension on the inner soleand the upper is secured to the inner sole by stitches which passlaterally into an inclined stitch-channel, so that the inner sole can befinished flat andsmooth on its upper surface within the boot or shoe,makinga neat job, and leaving no ridge to hurt the feet; second, inconstructing the inner sole with the we t-extension and the inclinedstitch-channel bt ore mentioned, and with a stitch-groove sunken belowthe surface of the welt-extension, into which the upper is drawn bythestitches that secure it, so that those stitches cannot be exposed bystretching the upper; and, further, in the combination of the prin- 3 5cipal parts of my double-sole turn boot or shoe, all as more fullyhereinafter explained, and pointed out by the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is across-section of the combined inner sole and welt before being crimped;Fig. 2, a cross-section of the inner sole and welt and the upper afterthe upper has been sewed to the inner sole on a Goodyear turn-machine;Fig. 3, a cross section, showing the shoe turned, the inner sole jacked,and the outer sole sewed to the welt-extension of the inner sole; andFig. 4, a front elevation of the knife used in the channeling-machinefor cutting the welt-extension and the sunken 5o stitch-groove on theinner sole.

Like letters denote corresponding parts in all the figures of thedrawings.

A is the inner sole, B the upper, and O the outer sole, of the boot orshoe.

The inner sole, after being out to the proper shape, is operated upon bya channeling-machine, which cuts the usual inner stitch-channel, a, inthe upper surface of the inner sole. It also cuts the welt-extension bon the edge of the inner sole, which welt-extension is not so thick asthe inner sole, and extends far enough beyond the outer stitch-groove,c, to form a welt to which the outer sole, 0, can be sewed. The outerstitch-groove, c, is also out by the channeling-machine, and is sunkenbelow the surface of the welt-extension b. In ,order to cut the weltextension b and sunken stitchgroove 0, it is necessary to provide thechanneling-machine with the knife D,(shown in Fig.

4,) which has a straight horizontal edge, d, for cutting thewelt-extension, and a downwardlyextending angular point, 66, for cuttingthe sunken stitch-groove. After the inner sole has been out, asdescribed, its outer edge to the bottom of the groove 0 is set or turneddown 7 on a crimping-machine to the position shown in Fig. 2. The innersole is then secured, with its channeled side outward, to a shoemakerslast. The upper is then stretched over the last, wrong side out, and itsedges are drawn over the inner sole and secured atintervals by smallnails. The upper is now sewed to the inner sole on a Goodyearturn-machine by lateral stitches e, which pass from the outer side,through the upper, into the bottom of the stitch-groove c, and inwardlyinto the inclined stitch-channel a, drawing the upper close down intothe bottom of the sunken stitch-groove 0. After this sewing is completedthe parts appear about as shown in Fig. 2. The last is go then taken outof the shoe, which is then turned right side out. It is then put on alast of dif-' ferent form from the first last, and, by hammering androlling the edge of the inner sole,

is flattened out straight, so as to close the in- 9 5 ner stitch-channeland bring the welt-extension into a horizontal position, as shown inFig. 3. After being thus jacked the stitches which secure the upper areentirely hidden,

and they cannot be exposed to view by draw= 10o ing back on the upperfrom the edge of the shoe.

The upper surface of the inner sole, within the boot or shoe, is alsoflat and smooth, without any ridges or bunches to hurt the feet or anyindication of the stitches, which are hidden in the bottom of theinclined stitch-channel a. This construction also enables me to use avery heavy thread for the iii-seam withoutmaking a clumsy finish orleaving any ridge or bunch.

The outer sole, 0, out to proper shape, is secured to the inner sole bytwo or three nails, and is then sewed to the welt-extension b byvertical stitches f, preferably on a Goodyear stitching-machine. Theboot or shoe is then finished in the usual manner.

The boots and shoes made according to my invention are as pliable and aseasy on the feet as the hand-sewed boots and shoes, and when worn out onthe soles can be resoled by sewing, which is not the case with themachine-sewed boots and shoes now on the market.

hat I claim as my invention is-- 1. In a double-sole machine-sewed turnboot or shoe, the inner sole, A, having inclined inner stitch-channel,a, welt-extension b, and outer stitch-groove, 0, sunken below thesurface of the welt-extension, substantially as described and shown, forthe purpose set forth.

2. A double-sole machine-sewed turn boot or shoe wherein are combinedthe inner sole, A, having inclined stitch-channel a, welt-extension 1),and sunken stitch-groove c, the upper B, secured to the inner solo bystitches e, passing laterally into the inclined stitch-channel anddrawing the upper down into the bottom of the sunken stitch-groove belowthe outer surface of the welt, and the outer sole, 0, secured to thewelt-extension of the inner sole, substantially as described and shown.

LORENZO H, MANSFIELD.

Witnesses:

W it. Q. KERRIGAN, CI-IAs. R. LYNCH.

